The crew behind Southside and Rick Shores don’t do anything in half measures. Central, the team’s newest culinary concept, is all the proof you need. Housed in a history-laden space beneath the Piccadilly Arcade building on Queen Street, the Hong Kong-inspired dumpling bar and restaurant is something to behold. An interior design scheme conjured by Jared Webb of J.AR OFFICE mixes the site’s existing brutalist bones with a sleek and austere aesthetic reminiscent of an inner-city office building. A central kitchen and bar is Central’s buzzing nexus, with executive chef and co-owner Benny Lam delving deep into his own experiences cooking in Hong Kong, delivering a traditional Cantonese-inspired offering that is flavoured with some personal tweaks. Highlights of the menu include Cantonese chu hou-style wagyu tartare, steamed Queensland grouper, rock lobster with e-fu noodles, triple-cooked Stockyard wagyu short ribs with red kampot pepper, and classic roast duck with lychee wood smoke and Lilly Pilly plum sauce. A 250-strong wine list encompasses classic varietals, fun new-wave drops and a clutch of hard-t0-source Chinese wines, which are available as part of a flight. Central’s fun, fruity and boozy cocktail list nods to Brisbane’s own subtropical environment and Hong Kong’s classic hotel barsof the 80s and 90s. Guests will spy a Harvey Wallbanger riff alongside martinis and nitrogen-compressed pina coladas.
