If Wes Anderson opened a restaurant, what would it be like? Henley’s, the brand-new bar and kitchen now open at the base of an iconic Teneriffe woolstore looks to answer that question. Taking guests on a culinary adventure across Asia, Henley’s is pairing a menu of gastronomic wonders and a selection of weird and wonderful cocktails with a colour-soaked aesthetic inspired by the distinctive director’s whimsical works. Take a peek inside …
“I want to sell what people don’t know,” says Tom D’Arcy. The owner of Teneriffe eatery and bar Henley’s is funnelling his love of the offbeat into the fabric of his brand-new venture, which opened last week on Commercial Road.
The hospitality veteran, who was previously part of the team behind Fortitude Valley venues Mr. Vain and Dirty Sultan, has struck out on his own with the new nosh spot, which has been luring in a healthy mix of foodies and film nuts.
Here, Tom is distilling two of his passions into a high-concept kitchen and cocktail haunt – one that’s inspired by the sights and sounds of his travels across Asia, and also influenced by the works of one of Tom’s favourite auteurs, Wes Anderson.
“Most of my travelling has always been around Asia,” says Tom. “So what I’m selling is that experience, but in more of a cinematic package.”
After signing the lease on the Teneriffe space – an empty shell at the base of the Willoughby & Co. Woolstores – Tom used his imagination to come up with a story that would sit at the heart of the project. Inspired by the travels of its fictional inspiration Arthur Henley, Henley’s charts the intrepid gastronome’s travels across post-colonial Asia via a menu filled with unique street-food items from Korea, Japan, China, the Philippines and Thailand.
“This is my tribute and fan addition to the world of Wes Anderson,” says Tom, “I’ve tried to think, ‘What would Wes do?’”
The venue – an empty shell with modern industrial bones – could have easily lent itself to a speakeasy vibe. But that was the opposite of what Tom wanted. Instead, he turned to Wes Anderson’s films to hone in on an aesthetic style that paid homage to the detail-oriented nature of the director’s colour-soaked sets.
“What makes his world of cinema unique is its beautiful design – the perfectly imperfect symmetry,” says Tom. “The reason that he can capture those shots is because he builds what’s in the scene. I saw an opportunity here to kind of achieve that. I’m not trying to take a Wes-style photo – I’m making a Wes-style set.”
Henley’s is a feast for the eyes. Upon entry, guests are greeted by the bar, which is backed by a shelf display housing booze bottles, plants and bric-a-brac – including some easter eggs for fans of Wes’ wacky characters. To the left of the entrance sits a formal dining space and the kitchen, while the left is a more casual area with high tops and window stools.
The entire venue boasts a vivid colour scheme of lemon yellow, mint green and tangerine orange, which is offset by timber fixtures and furnishings. The walls are adorned in framed photos of landmarks captured in signature Wes Anderson style (you know what we mean), while a couch is artfully positioned next to a rotary phone that we encourage Wes-savvy guests to put to their ear.
On the food front, Tom has worked with Henley’s head chef, Korean-born Junwoo Park to fashion a menu informed by a variety of Asian cooking cultures. The resulting offering mixes some familiar dishes with a plethora of unheralded options – either specialties one can only find overseas, or trendy dishes taking off right now.
“The aim is to serve unique street food items from across Asia – either our own creation, or something that you just can’t buy,” says Tom. “Things do lean a little bit Korean right now, but we have tried to inject things from other cultures as much as we can – there’s some Japanese, Chinese, Hong Kong, Filipino influences and we aim to do more and more of that.”
Guests can start with snacks like fried enoki mushroom with Sriracha mayo and black sesame pork loin with cabbage salad, before moving onto skewers of gochujang chicken and chilli-glazed rice cakes. From there, diners can tuck into bowls of Coca-Cola fried rice and Taiwanese knife-cut noodles with crispy pork belly and bok choy, before finishing off with a serve of mango pandan crepes with Biscoff crumble.
Tom has also crafted a punchy list of cocktails (all named after iconic characters from Wes Anderson films) that go hard on boldly forward flavours, courtesy of some savvy ingredient substitutions.
“Everything is a little bit familiar, but totally weird in some ways,” explains Tom. “Maybe it’s not lime, it’s calamansi; it’s not lychee, it’s rambutan; it’s not lemon, it’s yuzu – things like that.
Stand-out sips include the Royal (sesame-washed Johnnie Walker Black with acid-adjusted honey, Chinese five-spice bitters and applewood smoke), the Dmitri (Casamigos mezcal, Tarsier khao san gin, Campari, gochujang honey syrup, lime, grapefruit bitters and saline) and the Rhett (Tarsier calamansi citrus gin, Kikuyasaka yuzu liqueur, jackfruit and passionfruit).
These concoctions lead a beverage offering that also includes a range of bright and fun wines curated by Cork & Co., and a clutch of tap and packaged beers. Henley’s is serving Vietnamese-style beers, which come with a cylinder of ice to help with dilution, moderation and just keeping cool.
All that said, Tom stresses that you don’t need to be a fan of Wes Anderson films to enjoy Henley’s, envisioning the venue as a multipurpose respite for locals seeking something a little bit offbeat.
“It’s not a theme place – if you don’t know Wes Anderson, it doesn’t matter,” says Tom. “It’s part bar, part bistro, part takeaway – aiming to really cater to everyone in this area. Whatever you want it to be, it can be that thing for you. I just want it to be that weird and wonderful place that you want to tell your friends about.”
Henley’s is now open to the public. You can find all the important details over in The Directory.